APOLLON
MAGAZINE FOR CULTURE, STYLE AND FASHION

The mask of the Corona

A pandemic changes the fashion world

Still with guests before the pandemic — the fashion show “STEPHANE ROLLAND” in the year 2020 (picture: Christian Janssen)

The first highlight in this year was the Paris fashion week from 24ᵗʰ January 2022 to 27ᵗʰ January 2022. The collections for spring and summer of 2022 were presented at a real show or with a digital screening or just with a lookbook. The Lebanese fashion designer Zuhair Murad preferred a show for his new collection. Under the motto “VERS LES JOYAUX DU TEMPS” he created a world of mysterious hidden islands and revived the grandeur of the age of navigating the high seas; pirates, bedecked with ornate jewels, came from an imaginary wreck, digged up the treasures in ancient galleons at the bottom of the sea and conquered the runway of the hotel “THE WESTIN” on 26ᵗʰ January 2022. The silver embroidery at the garments was dark in striking contrast to the tangles of gold chains and pearls slung from the slender waists. Lavish embroidery elucidated time‑worn navigation charts on ball gowns. Magnificent golden contours like tattoos on tulle were a special adornment. The collection also included shirts with balloon sleeves of pleated organza, waistcoats of brocade, midi‑skirts of sunray‑pleated lamé fabric, shorts with cascades of tulle, long dresses of silk chiffon as well as jumpsuits and fitted jackets of crepe cady. Brocades and embroideries brought the flamboyance attenuated by the passage of time back to life. Jewels were incorporated into the fabrics. The palette contained the aged pink of maritime dawns, the pallid red of canopies faded by sun and salt, the yellow of the sand at beaches and in deserts, the rust shades of oxidized metals as well as the blue and green of the water when it reflects the sky. Double leather belts which formed a corset, tricorn hats and turbans were the perfect accessories. It was a collection at the crossroads of the Grand Siècle and the digital era.

The compatriot George Chakra launched his new collection in digital form on 25ᵗʰ January 2022. A Paris garage was the setting for the presentation; its cold bare béton was the contrast to the forty‑five exquisite pieces of the collection which was a contemporary interpretation of Grecian Classicism. The purity, the clarity of structure and the poetic expression, which characterized this period in history, was interpreted into wearable pieces imbued with light, balance and passion. Finely pleated silk crêpe stirred the imagination while ethereal chiffon evoked the desire; fine, geometric beading breathed a new meaning into the formal cocktail dresses. Embroidery and sequins emphasized the structures, for example, the subtle asymmetry of a neckline or the sensuous geometric line. Tailored silk crêpe, supple jersey and luminescent maille sensually draped the bodies in order to reveal its contours subtly. Pale alabaster white of classical statues, vanilla yellow, sand yellow, blush red and fawn brown were a reference to the sun‑drenched Mediterranean world. Besides that, dusty pastels such as iridescent seashell grey and powdered amethyst blue gleamed. Traces of metallic gold and silver shimmered throughout in order to add a delicate and precious touch, as if the early morning light danced on crushing waves. The wedding gown was a full skirted vision of vanilla‑tinted mesh guipure, appliquéd with lustrous petals of organza and embroidered with threads of gold.

Life and arts in Paris and Berlin in the roaring 1920s had been the French fashion designer Alexandre Vauthier’s source of inspiration for a collection which was also a reinterpretation of the New Look of the 1980s. A strongly shouldered, draped peplum jacket with ample, almost slouchy trousers and an hourglass jacket with a tiny mini‑skirt stood for the principle of power dressing while fluid low-waisted dresses with many vaporous layers were light. A slip dress of silver tulle with embroidery in rhodoid shapes and a pantsuit with a leopard print were special pieces. Many bias cuts were new for the fourteenth member of the Chambre syndicale de la Haute Couture since the year 2014. White, madder red and silver grey shone at the sharp silhouettes despite feathers and ruffles. Soft boots had studs of “SWAROVSKI”-crystals. Alexandre Vauthier showed the collection in the event site “PONTS ᴇᴛ CHAUSSEES” on 25ᵗʰ January 2022.

Power was also a topic for the Paris‑based fashion designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov from Bulgaria, namely the power of imagination. Under the motto “superheroes”, spidery textures, pleats, draping, kaleidoscopic print, embroidery, metallically mirroring inserts, high boots and masks were the necessaries for their “superamazons” who came out of darkness onto the stage of the cabaret “PARADIS LATIN” on 25ᵗʰ January 2022.

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