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MAGAZINE FOR CULTURE, STYLE AND FASHION

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Fashion and colour

Portrait in black and white — the model Marianna Borovynska after the fashion show “ZUHAIR MURAD” (picture: Christian Janssen)

Zuhair Murad’s couture collection for autumn and winter of 2022/2023 was a tale of ten chapters with all the mystical arts, from Tarot and astrology to horoscopes and palmistry; the collection “Les Arts Divinatoires” in which cryptic and complex symbols prevailed, inspired by the Ukrainian artist Daria Hlazatova’s ethereal works, attracted love, fortune and fame. Eyes, windows to the soul, played a main role in a part of the collection in order to allow moonlight to filter through silver embroidery; or they were centered on the fabrics, gathering its folds with absolute tenderness. The signs of the zodiac bestow an expansive astral theme onto long gowns. The designer’s own astrological sign, namely the Cancer, looked like an impress of a sigil on the front of a gown. The snake, symbolizing health and vigor, boldly weaved its way through the collection. Tarot cards with all their mysteries and enigmas appeared in geometric adornments. The sun predominated all cosmic and astrological symbols and elements like a queen; it also illuminated with its grandeur the celestial gowns which were embellished with golden threads. Immeasurable stars in alignment were also there. The astonishing motifs were on high‑cut wrap skirts accompanied by thigh‑high boots, Karakou jackets, daring bodysuits, short dresses with removable trains, long sheath gowns with explicit shoulders, ball gowns and draped jumpsuits, bare midriff accompanied by capes. Zuhair Murad’s signature motif, namely the embroidered tattoos on transparent tulle, and feathers completed the collection.

His compatriot, the fashion designer Georges Chakra, presented a collection in the Hôtel d’Évreux on 7ᵗʰ July 2022. This time it was not a runway show, but an installation. With the elegant designs, he remained true to himself.

In the famous café “Café de Flore”, the French fashion designer Lola Rykiel, a well‑known designer Sonia Rykiel’s granddaughter, showed a collection of her brand “POMPOM PARIS” from the year 2019 on 7ᵗʰ July 2022, for which Jana Matheson as the chief creative officer and Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger as the creative director of the brand “JUDITH LEIBER COUTURE” had designed the accessories. For Lola Rykiel, Judith Leiber embodied the glamour and eccentricity of New York City. The luxury handbags, dazzling clutches with rhinestones, were a tribute to Lola Rykiel’s time which she had spent in New York City. So Lola Rykiel brought the witty, ironic, and decadent style to Paris for the first time. A miniature pill box in the form of a tiny jar of nail polish, was perfect for carrying petit necessities or a couple of cigarettes for a night out and was covered in brilliant pink and black stones, the “POMPOM PARIS”‑colours. An oversized lipstick minaudière, equally covered in pink and black crystals, beared the brand’s logo on the bottom of the clutch. A bomber jacket of luxe satin, encrusted with a “Café de Flore”‑logo of “SWAROVSKI”‑crystals across the back, appeared in two colours, namely black and blush pink.

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